Introduction to Turkey

People's perception of travel has been tragically and drastically altered by world events. And Turkey lies disturbingly close to a tumultuous region in upheaval. If that weren't enough, Turkey has been unlucky enough to succumb to a series of events in the past decade that includes terrorism, earthquakes, and a relentless hammering of the local economy. On the surface, any rebound of the tourist economy seems farfetched. But this trend of stagnation will only continue if people continue to be influenced by fear of the unknown; because people who know just can't get enough of Turkey.

Like the land that makes up this vast, contradictory landscape, Turkey straddles East and West, modern and traditional. But if Turks are having problems defining who they are, then foreigners are completely in the dark. The omission of some of civilizations' most significant influences (Hittites, Selçuks, and Ottomans) in Western history books just feeds the emptiness of what Westerners know about Turkey. Considering the depth and breadth of what Turkey has to offer, this is shameful. And, with the Western media's coverage of militants acting in the name of Islam as representative of all Muslims, the level of ignorance is compounded. It's no small wonder that Turkey fails to top the list of travel destinations.

As the only (rabidly) secular Muslim country in the world, Turkey is a model for any Muslim regime. To boot, Turkey has had a long history of experience in dealing with terrorists and was the obvious regional expert sought out by the West in the war against terrorism. Is it safe? Absolutely. (But please do the usual: Watch your valuables and don't talk to strangers.)

So with the inevitable issue of safety out of the way, then why go? Why go anywhere else, I say? The magic of Turkey bubbles over in its history, culture, gastronomy, humanity, exotic nature, and commerce. Turkey bills itself, and rightfully so, as the "Cradle of Civilization," boasting more Greek ruins than Greece and more Roman archaeological sites than all of Italy. Turkey is also a major custodian of sacred sites revered by Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike, and of invaluable remnants of early Greek civilization, Byzantine majesty, and Ottoman culture and artistry. But, while most tourist brochures zone in on archaeological ruins and artistic masterpieces, few devote the appropriate space to the magnificence of Turkey's Mediterranean, its self-indulgent pleasures (imagine basking in a mineral mud bath), or the wide array of choices available for nature lovers and sports enthusiasts. Turkey is a singularly unique country, still unspoiled and innocent, and pleasantly surprised by the fact that visitors come from far and wide to witness its way of life. It's all rather disarming to travelers who've visited other parts of the world, where crowds of rubbernecking, Bermuda-shorts-wearing, camera-sporting arrivals elicit exclamations of "damned tourists." Turks welcome their guests with a genuineness of spirit and boundless generosity that defies superlatives. This from a population in which 80% of the people can't afford meat and where the native language provides no word for "bitter." Truly, until you experience Turkish hospitality, you've barely broken the surface of what generosity can be.

Turkey is so densely packed with riches of every kind that the most difficult decision will be what not to see. I found it difficult to write this book without making it sound like a press release, because the country is so superlative and the culture so contrary to what you'd expect. You'll soon see for yourselves why nobody leaves Turkey with a lukewarm impression. Face it; there's no way to see it all. So this book attempts to sort through the absolute essentials of a first-time visit, providing an introduction to a country and culture you will surely want to revisit.